Tuesday, 28 June 2011

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #2) Full-Set Sculpted Gel Nails With Forms.......

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #2) Full-Set Sculpted Gel Nails With Forms.......

Part A: Using clear gels only
Part B: Using White Free Edge

PART A) The following "Full-Set with Clear Gel" method can be used for "transfers"*, full-sets, overlays, or fill-ins with major service breakdown!(*Transfers from acrylic to gel or from one tech to another)
1)Prep natural nails as usual AND/OR file off old product, and file entire nail thin and flush, be careful to NOT file on the natural nail.

2)Do rest of prep work (dust, prime, etc), apply forms. (Do not shorten her natural nails or "even" them out. Keep as much of each natural nail free edge as you can, you will "even" them up with the gel as needed.)

3)1 coat of gel on entire nail and slightly out onto form. Cure. (see gel nail lesson above for gel application methods)If you need to actually build a SHORT free edge, draw a box with a line of gel from one sidewall straight out to length desired and back down to meet other sidewall, then "pull" gel back and forth to fill in box thinly.

4)Lay down fiber from mid nail bed out past free edge onto form (to help "hold" the slight extension, and to reinforce stress zone of the nail to help prevent future breakage). Pat fiber in till "gone". Cure.

5)Lay down coat #2 of gel, over entire nail again and out onto form as in first coat. Add slight arching and top "C" curve (convex)for strength, beauty, and natural look, by using "ribbon" or "tail" method with "thin" gel (described in gel nail lesson above)or building it with builder gels (depends on the brand gel you use!). Cure.

6)Remove forms. Apply 3rd coat of gel (final coat usually in a full set, some techs need to use more coats though if they lay down their gel too thin),with more arching as needed. Cure.
7)Cure upside down one cycle. Cleanse nails.

8)Use straight edge toe nail clippers to clip off any "stray" gel to make free edge shape, and sidewalls straight, or file by hand.

9)Shape and finish nails as usual, shape free edge, perfect sidewall taper, bevel cuticle, sidewalls and free edge, adjust top surface arches etc, use drill for concave of "C" curve as needed(Underside of nail if gel seeped under forms), buff till smooth as you would any acrylic nail. (Buff out and polish, or buff out and a gloss coat if preferred) 

PART B) Building Full-Set Gel Nails Over Forms With WHITE Free-Edge Gel.....
1) Prep nails as usual, prime, apply forms.

2) Apply 1 coat of gel to natural nail only. Cure.

3) Apply white gel onto form and overlapping natural nail as needed (depends on the length of ther natural nails), being sure to make a nice smile line with the white. Use the "drawing a box" method described above to make the white free edge on the form.

4) Optional: Add fiber at this time if desired, bridging it over the clear onto the white. (see above and below lessons for more step-by-steps on adding fiber to gels). Cure fiber for at least 30 sec before continuing.

5) Apply 2nd coat of clear gel to entire nail (clear nail bed and white sculpted nail on form), adding arching as appropriate. Cure.

6) Remove forms. Apply 3rd (final) coat of gel with more arching as needed. Cure.
7) Cure nails upside down for 1 complete cycle.

8) Cleanse nails with cleanser or 99% alcohol on a lint free wipe. Do not rub residue into skin. Lay down the wipe at cuticle, and pull off nail in one firm stroke. Move to a new section of wipe and continue with other nails. Don't forget to wipe the backs of the gel extensions as well when needed!

9) Do finish work as above (shape, taper, contour, bevel, buff, etc).....
10) Now either polish or apply gloss coat!

GLOSS COAT Application:
After doing finish work to ensure nails are perfect, you must also remove all glossy surfaces remaining. Dust very well. Apply gloss coat thinly and evenly, examine nails carefully for full coverage and to be sure there are no streaks or air bubbles. When the nail is perfect CURE. Wipe with cleanser and you are done. For MINOR imperfections in gloss coat use a 3 or 4 way buffer gently in the spot of the imperfection. For MAJOR imperfections in gloss coat, buff it out and start over again on the affected nails.

Gel Gloss Coat over Airbrushing:
(WARNING, THIS IS NOT AS EASY AS IT SOUNDS!!!!) Be sure paint is very dry, and apply gel with brush parallel to the nail and a very light touch, being sure to pull out and over the free edge. Cure and wipe with cleanser. To remove, simply file it off (gel and paint) as you prepare for the next fill. Between fills, simple polish over it.
This lesson and others are "under construction" and will be added here as soon as they are ready!.....See lesson #4 for some ideas and insight into this procedure in the meantime!


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