Thursday, 30 June 2011

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #4) Combining Gel With Fiber Wraps

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #4) Combining Gel With Fiber Wraps

Explanation of gels and fiber: No, I am not using a gel w/ fiber already in it (like LE’s Fabrique). I am referring to sandwiching fiber-wraps like silk or fiberglass in between layers of gel (ANY U-V GEL!)....The fiber I like is Star Nails silk in the rollout box dispenser, and I like my stores scissors, cut well, and cheap enough to throw out (rather than have sharpened) when they get dull (actually I retire them to the "paper forms dept", for cutting out the backs of and customizing forms as needed..... I have an acrylic clear box form holder/dispenser (from LCN), and I just tuck the scissors in next to the roll.

I lay down one coat of REGULAR gel then cure 1 complete cycle. Then I place and PAT down a piece of fiber (glass or silk) into tacky residue until it disappears, (pick up fiber with "sticky" gel nail brush),and cure again (about 1/2 a reg. cure). Then I lay down another coat of gel over this as usual, adding any arches, etc, that may be needed, and cure again as usual. Now, finish as usual: wipe w/ alcohol and shape and bevel, buff etc....

1) When using fiber in conjunction w/ white free edge gel over a form (vs using over the natural nail or a tip w/ clear gel)....1st apply form, apply 1 thin coat of gel to remaining nail, cure 1 full cycle, apply white gel to area needed----entire free edge, chipped corner, etc., cure 1 full cycle, apply piece of fiber large enough to bridge from extended area (or cracked area) back over to rest of nail (but not too big to hang off nail or touch sidewalls or cuticle or not able to lay down!), pat in to tacky residue from last cure until it disappears, cure again to cement in place (30 sec's or so), now continue w/ at least one more coat of gel as usual.

2) Fiber MUST always be sandwiched between layers of preferred method is to lay it into cured gel residue, re-cure, and apply another layer.... Some manufacturers will tell you to lay it into an uncured layer of gel...well try it, you'll see what happens...gel floats to top and you have fibers sticking out, fiber slides around before gel cures, gel ends up in sidewalls because you spend too much time fiddling with the fiber and the gel is already MOVING! Also, I worry about GEL NOT COMPLETELY CURING BECAUSE OF SOME OF THE U-V LIGHT BEING OBSCURED OR REFLECTED AWAY BY THE FIBERGLASS (or silk). For these reasons, I personally like to place my fiber into CURED GEL ONLY. (However, as always, and with any technique... you may find another way of doing it that you like better and that works better for you personally!)

3) Hint: to remove a lot of extra gel that may have run a round on the form, (after it has cured) use STRAIGHT (not regular curved) BLADED toe nail clippers (I carry them in my store here if you can’t find them elsewhere or locally) to remove excess gel easily(PUT ON THOSE SAFETY GLASSES (which you should ALREADY have on anyway, if you need a reminder--- and I also carry those in the store!!!!!!), AND WATCH THE CLIENTS SKIN!) Now, straighten and taper sidewalls appropriately, without a ton of filing!

This procedure I've described is great for:

1)whole nail extensions (short ones, 25% or so), at F/S or repairs at fills (done w/ either white gel for F/S or even clear gel on forms (for 1 nail or repair).... the fiber clouds up the gel just enough to be un-noticeable on short extensions or corner chips.... or missing sidewalls....

2)cracks that go all the way thru to the natural nail bed (wipe/ FLUSH crack w/ alcohol 1st----yes, it will burn, so she (client may want to delay procedure, oooouch, the pain they/we will endure for their/our nails!), and be sure there are no other underlying pathogens to lock in, and seal w/ the tiniest bit of nail glue first (crazy glue/nail glue is safe for skin in small amts, in fact INVENTED for skin for soldiers in Vietnam to prevent infection of bleeding injuries while in the jungle and too far from med station to survive bacteria in jungle alive!). This will prevent gel from seeping into crack onto skin where it won't cure and only irritate! So sanitize, glue, 1 coat gel, cure, fiber, set, more gel, cure, wipe, and finish work!!!!!

3) Even nails that are completely broken off can use this procedure, use the tiniest bit of glue to hold broken nail piece to remaining nail., put a form under for support, and Voila--- re-attachment ---but be sure to add extra fiber to sidewalls as well or crack will re-start and take over eventually!)

4) Also good for sidewall repairs w/ forms (nails that have become too "skinny" or tapered too close to stress area (hyponychium area), or for replacing chips missing off of corners of free edge, etc...

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